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Samsung HLN467WX/XAA Unique No Power Problem   Goto page 1, 2  Next  
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Xploitz



Joined: 10 Oct 2009
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 10:33 am    Post subject: Samsung HLN467WX/XAA Unique No Power Problem Reply with quote

Hi. First time viewer and poster here at these forums. I hope somebody can help me.

I have a Samsung DLP TV that I inherited from my brother. It was made clear to me that it didn't work anymore. I figured I have a $3000 TV for the first time in my life and I want it to work!

Model # HLN467WX/XAA

It wont turn on. What I mean is that the color wheel wont spin, the fans wont run, the lamp wont turn on. Its like its not getting power...but it is. I noticed that on power up that the green lamp light will blink twice before the TV "shuts down. I hear the relay click from the power button. I can hear what sounds to be a very high pitched whining sound like a camera charging up sound that seems to be coming from the ballast. But then after just a couple of seconds....nothing...it just powers off and doesn't try to start up again on its own. I have to press the power button to try the cycle again, and its always the same unhappy ending no matter if I unplug it and plug it back in or if I press and hold down the power button. Nothing. No life in it.

What test can I try to determine what part I need to replace? And what do you suspect to be the problem?

Fans wont fun, lamp wont light up, and color wheel wont spin.

Thanks for your help.

James
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Xploitz



Joined: 10 Oct 2009
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 6:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Samsung HLN467WX/XAA Unique No Power Problem Reply with quote

Anything guys? Anything I can test to help me find out why my TV wont "power up"?

The odd thing is that the fans dont run, the color wheel wont spin and the lamp wont light. All I get is that I can hear the ballast "charging up". You know, that high pitched whining sound like an old flash camera makes. What would cause all of these parts not to run?

I can see a green light on the back of what I "think" is the digital board. So there's power flowing.....hmmmm.

Please offer me any test to try or suggestions.
Inkedivxx



Joined: 05 Aug 2009
Posts: 39
Location: Myrtle Beach SC

PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the lamp good? Actually pull the lamp out and look at it.
Jesse Mack



Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts: 600
Location: The Last Frontier

PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probable open thermal bymetal switch (the round silver thingy on top of the lamp cage.)

Jesse
Xploitz



Joined: 10 Oct 2009
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Inkedivxx wrote:
Is the lamp good? Actually pull the lamp out and look at it.


Yes the lamp appears good. Its nice and shiny, no burn or char spots on or in it. And the hair like filament appears to be intact.

Jesse Mack wrote:
Probable open thermal bymetal switch (the round silver thingy on top of the lamp cage.)

Jesse


I saw that. It has 2 prongs and its connected to a little piece of circuit board about the size of your pinky that has a small wire harness of 2 wires that are colored 1 black and 1 blue wire. And it leads from the bimetal to the digital board I believe.

I work in the HVAC field and bimetals are nothing new to me. Their used to open and close a circuit once a certain temperature is obtained. How would I test it on my TV though? Im assuming Id be looking for continuity with my VOM or lack of continuity?

Am I correct in assuming though that once the power button is pressed on the TV that the color wheel spins first?...then the ballast powers the lamp and then the fans turn on??

I just remember reading somewhere that before the lamp lights up the color wheel MUST be spinning? And in my case neither the color wheel, fans nor the lamp will turn on.


Thank you BOTH very much for offering to help me out. What should be my next step in properly diagnosing my TV's problem?
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Xploitz



Joined: 10 Oct 2009
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jesse Mack wrote:
Probable open thermal bymetal switch (the round silver thingy on top of the lamp cage.)

Jesse


Ok, I put my VOM up to the 2 prongs on top and it immediately read 0.0 ohms, then it slowly rose to 2.5 Ohms after about 5 seconds where it never rose or fell again.

So I'm assuming the bimetal is good.
Xploitz



Joined: 10 Oct 2009
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

**UPDATE**

I bypassed the "safety switch" that's just inside the lamp panel and still same problem.

Also I shorted or "bypassed" the thermal bimetal switch by connecting a alligator test lead across both top prongs, and still same issue. No fans, no color wheel spin...no lamp. Sad
Xploitz



Joined: 10 Oct 2009
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, I just tested the ballast.

Coming from the power board (the blue and brown wire) to the ballast. I obtained a reading of 216VDC on initial power on, and dropped to a "steady" 180VDC. I don't know what the standard DC voltage is for the ballast to receive but I "think" this is enough? The power only stayed on for 2-3 seconds before it shutdown. Still, no lamp...no fans, no color wheel life. Oh, and the ballast only made one "click" which was after what i believe was the tv shutting itself down.
Jesse Mack



Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts: 600
Location: The Last Frontier

PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the color wheel does not turn the set will shut down.

Jesse
Xploitz



Joined: 10 Oct 2009
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jesse Mack wrote:
If the color wheel does not turn the set will shut down.

Jesse


Hmmm. Ive taken off the color wheel. I see no "burn" spots or any indication of it being bad. It spins freely with no force. No cracks or broken pieces on the wheel. HHmmmm. Where do I put direct AC current to it to test it to see if the motor is ok? It says>>>

UNAXIS SHANGAI CO.,LTD. On one side of the tag on the ribbon cable, and on the other it says SAMGUNG102130941 and then it says *SD036336*

Any help would be most appreciated!
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