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Toshiba CF2768B vert size   Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next  
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JTS1957



Joined: 21 Jan 2009
Posts: 2394
Location: Far, Far Away

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should look like: but red shring tubing/cover. But as I stated previously, your set doesn't use a C301, for example.

By standard practices I assume you are NOT bending/twisting the PCB more than is absolutely necessary, plugging connectors back into their proper sockets, that molten solder is NOT dripping/being flung all over the board, that you are using a soldering "iron" and 60/40 rosin core solder and NOT a plumber's torch and leaded solder, etc.
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1968RT



Joined: 13 Mar 2010
Posts: 51
Location: michigan

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the clarification. No I don't see any caps with such covers on them.
sdtv



Joined: 31 Mar 2008
Posts: 12

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jumping the caps is old school.

Use a cap with a higher voltage rating than the ones being jumped and make sure the - and + are on the right places or the cap could get real hot.

New school would be to check it with one of these.

http://www.peakelec.co.uk/acatalog/jz_esr60.html

The red caps were in different Toshiba models. They must have got a big bad batch.
1968RT



Joined: 13 Mar 2010
Posts: 51
Location: michigan

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since my TV doesn't have the red covered caps I have no idea which ones you are saying should be tested.
1968RT



Joined: 13 Mar 2010
Posts: 51
Location: michigan

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Of course since the set won't even turn on that's academic.
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sdtv



Joined: 31 Mar 2008
Posts: 12

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All the e caps in the vertical section. Check the resistors and diodes too.

Every cap, diode and resistor near the vertical chip if no service manual.

The red caps were an automatic change.

If you are going to do tv repair a good cap tester is a must.

Many of the LCD tvs can be fixed by just replacing bad caps.

http://www.testingelectroniccomponents.com/samplereport.pdf

good stuff !
JTS1957



Joined: 21 Jan 2009
Posts: 2394
Location: Far, Far Away

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like sdtv MAY be trying to sell someone sumthin. He hasn't caught on yet that your symptom has changed.

You've swapped out ALL the electrolytic capacitors mentioned (hopefully paying attention to their polarity). Also the IC which had both VCCs present.

Then "something" happened that causes the set to only have a relay click (each time power is pressed I assume relay "clicks," next time power is pressed relay deenergizes).
Let's see which voltage source(s) you have. I assume you have a DVM and know how to use it?
Voltage across C810 = 156VDC? (RAW B-plus ... Set "ON")
Voltage across C842 = 5VDC? (Stand-by ... Set "Off" or "On")
Voltage on either side of F802 (minus lead of meter to tuner case) = 115VDC?
Voltage across C647 = 20.4VDC?
1968RT



Joined: 13 Mar 2010
Posts: 51
Location: michigan

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, when the set is plugged in the relay (labelled SR81) clicks twice. The power switch then does nothing.
JTS1957



Joined: 21 Jan 2009
Posts: 2394
Location: Far, Far Away

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are any of the voltages listed above present? Even if only for the short time until the relay de-energizes.
1968RT



Joined: 13 Mar 2010
Posts: 51
Location: michigan

PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 12:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuse F802 was blown - replaced it and the power switch now functions, but
no picture just a high pitched whine (flyback?) and the smell of something getting hot.
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