Riddled TV Repair Forum

Tonyklem · Joined: 16 Mar 2008 Posts: 4 Location: Pittsburgh

I have an LTV-27w2 I am working on. I opened it up and there was a little bit of corrosion on the main board. It wasn't bad and it cleaned up very well.
Here is the problem I am having. When I plug it in, it blows the fuse instantly. I looked at the Power Supply and found that one of the resistors had about 1/4 of it chipped off. Here is a picture of what I'm talking about (not my actual power supply).

It was cracked/damaged to the point where I could not get the numbers off of it. Does anyone have a tv like this or is there a way I could find out what resistor this is?
It looks like the power board's number is DPS-210EP-2 C and the resistor's spot is labeled with a TH1. Any suggestions? I think the Power supply's part number is 2950149205. But I would like to try to fix this one for a couple bucks before I go and spend almost $200 for a new power supply.

Google

kuhurdler · Joined: 28 Dec 2006 Posts: 2879 Location: Overland Park, KS

I know very little about westinghouse TVs. They appear to have inferior parts and worse support.
If its a resistor, I think your best bet would be reading the color bands on it if you can.

Tonyklem · Joined: 16 Mar 2008 Posts: 4 Location: Pittsburgh

intricity · Joined: 06 May 2008 Posts: 1 Location: Kansas

Hello,

I am also trying to repair one of these power supplies.

The number printed on the green round part (which may be a capacitor, not a resistor) is: SCK 2R58 522 .

The board I am looking at looks good, and I don't see any signs of overheating, bad caps or other obvious damage. Any luck in locating another one of these power supplies? :roll:

Jesse Mack · Joined: 22 May 2008 Posts: 600 Location: The Last Frontier

The device you are referring to is a MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor). Its purpose in life is to stop power surges from burning up the power supply and it is placed directly across the AC line. To verify your problem just remove the device and power up your unit. A new one has no internal resistance and only goes to a low resistance when there is a spike on the AC line greater than its trigger level. It then dileberatly goes to a direct short in a nanosecond to deliberatly open the fuse. If the unit operates after removing the device you can replace it with a ECG replacement.

Google

Tonyklem · Joined: 16 Mar 2008 Posts: 4 Location: Pittsburgh

Jesse Mack · Joined: 22 May 2008 Posts: 600 Location: The Last Frontier

To verify the function of the device, follow the foil traces visually. start from the AC input terminals. They will go thru a couple of chokes(transformer type of devices). If the damaged device is directly mounted across the line (between the two AC input posts basically) it is a MOV and removing the MOV will remove the short.

Jesse

Tonyklem · Joined: 16 Mar 2008 Posts: 4 Location: Pittsburgh

myersdam · Joined: 05 May 2011 Posts: 2 Location: michigan

My westinghouse LTV-27w2 not powering up, only get blue light

I have read numerous posts on different sites. After reading about what I already thought was the problem, power supply. I thought about "cold" solder joints. I removed the power supply and resoldered most every joint I could get my solder tip on. I did find 1 that was loose. Under the thin grey rectangle device {might be a relay. After all that I hooked it back up and walla, it came on and has been playing longer than before. So far so good. Try it. it only takes about 30min and it's free! Especially when I found this TV sitting out to someones trash.

Joe Friendly · Joined: 23 May 2011 Posts: 1 Location: Manhattan

Myersdam and Tonyklem have given me hope. I found a Westinghouse LTV-27w2 in the trash about a year ago. It would only stay on for about a half hour. I put a fan at the back aimed at the power supply and that solved the problem for about 8 months. But then same old problem came back.
I saw the advice to open it up and resolder power supply boards' connections.

But I can't figure out how to open it up to get at the power supply boards! I took out on the back the 4 phillips head screws along the bottom, all the same size, and 2 in the top corners, and 2 more near the center near the upper corners of the escutcheon label with the model number and serial number, and even a couple by the AV2 port. I also took out 4 in the corners of the steel plate in the center that seems to connect with the base that holds the screen upright.

I then tried prying and made a little progress along the bottom, like a peak at the internal speaker and components before it closed up again. Duh. but I just can't get the back off, that is, separated from the front, so I can gain access to the power supply boards. any suggestions? Do I have to take apart the base from the screen?